Big Bro
by Geoffrey Berliner

    It's not often that I'm called upon to repair pencils but ever so often a pencil requires attention that completes a rare and beautiful set.  There are those collectors who for years have specialized in mechanical pencils and, with the recent interest in fountain pen, this area is quickly becoming more popular.  Pencil repair is a discipline unto itself that requires tools 
different than those needed for fountain pen repair.  Success is not always guaranteed because parts are usually required. These parts are generally difficult to find.  For the most part a junked pencil is needed to harvest parts.  I chose to write about Parker Duofold pencils due to the great popularity of the Duofold and because of the increasing popularity of the Duofold pencil, unto itself as a collectable.
    Let's get started.  As with fountain pens there are many components that can break and need replacement. This article will not focus on this, nor will it deal with cosmetic restoration of the pencil.  The goal is to render a non-working pencil functional.  Three problems, or the conjunction of any of these three maladies, can occur to prevent the Duofold pencil from working: 
Clogging, sleeve cracking- which causes slippage, and propelling.  Clogging and sleeve damage are our primary concerns here because they can be addressed with repair techniques.  Propelling poses problems that are best remedied with replacing parts, usually the entire mechanism.
    Clogging occurs when moisture causes the lead to become impacted in the nose cone. This can be simply rectified  by reaming it out. To do this the nose cone must be removed from the pencil barrel.  Usually removal is as simple as unscrewing it from the barrel.  If resistance occurs, then heat the barrel near the nose cone with a hot air gun or a hair drier. Don't over heat.  Heating is especially necessary with Mandarin and red hard rubber pencil barrels because they tend to be brittle.  Use a .043 in. drill bit fitted in a hand held drill bit holder.  This can be obtained at a machinist tool or jewelry tool supplier.  Reaming is simple enough; drill into the opening of the nose cone until all the impacted lead has been un-lodged.
    The gripping tongs of the mechanism might need clearing as well.  The gripping tongs are at the end of a thin brass tube that propels out from the center of the mechanism.  Be sure the pencil mechanism is completely in the protracted position.  If the mechanism is clear, then the push rod, which is the very core of the pencil, will protract out from the gripping tongs.  If it does not protract, then the pencil mechanism is broken and should be replaced, or the gripper tong tube is clogged and must be cleared.  Proceed by reaming out the gripper tube in the same manner as was done with the nose cone.  Be careful not to cause the gripper tongs to become misshapen.  This will prevent the proper function of the pencil.
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    Another common malady of the Duofold pencil mechanism is slippage of the housing sleeve due to stress and cracking. It is possible to determine if this has occurred if the mechanism can be pulled away a few millimeters from the barrel.  Remove the mechanism from the barrel by unscrewing it by holding the mechanism from where the clip meets the barrel.  Keep in mind that heat may need to be applied.  With the mechanism exposed, examine the cylindrical sheath which comprises the outer sleeve of the unit.  At the bottom is where the cracks occur.  There is a retaining bushing at the end of this sheath that must be flush with the bottom of the sheath.  If it is not, manipulate the mechanism until it is flush.  The bushing and sheath were manufactured so that they are fixed in place as one piece.  The cracking in the sheath is what causes the slippage.
    To remedy this slippage the best approach is to drill a hole into both the sheath and bushing and insert a pin to prevent any movement.  To do this a small drill press is required or a drill press attachment for a Dremel tool.  Use a .040 in. drill bit and bore only partially through the sheath and into the bushing.  Do not drill straight through because the mechanism will be damaged.  Obtain .040 in. stainless or brass rod (or an appropriate size rod slightly smaller than the drilled hole) from a hobby shop to be used as the pin.  Insert one end of the rod into the hole and clip off with a wire cutter as close as possible to the sheath.  File down the pin so that it is flush and secure with a daub of 2 ton epoxy.  This should prevent any further slippage problems. Reassemble your pencil and get started on that crossword puzzle you've been putting off. If you're feeling confident, then use a fountain pen.
    As an end note; keep in mind that there weren't  Parker technicians repairing the intricacies of all the pens and pencils sent in for repair.  
They were provided with factory parts and mechanisms and simply replaced the components or, if need be, replaced the entire writing instrument.  Pencils were certainly dealt with in this manner and these practices are still being applied today on current models.
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